Kempu-Hole and Yedakumeri

+ Also see: Earlier trip to Yedakumeri – trek on the rail tracks

My association with KempuHole is more than a decade old. She flows down from the green mountains in the Sahyadris, boosted by several streams that join her along the way, carrying their cool, pristine and perfectly transparent water. Swimming in Kemphole was an idea I was toying with for a few months now.

Come Friday evening, we boarded a bus to Dharmasthala. The friendly bus conductor was willing to give is an unscheduled stop wherever we wanted, and after much thinking and debate, we decided to take the bus till Gundya cross. We reached there as early as 5.30am and were lucky to find one of the many shacks selling food already open. We barged in, threw our bags down the floor and got busy with a cuppa hot coffee. One of us, it seems was real hungry – he jumped on the bunch of bananas hanging in front of the shop with an eagerness no less than a monkey and helped himself to them one after other. The shop-keeper looked at us, smiled and asked us –

“ivarige ellu oota sikkilva antha..!”

This guy had not had anything eat for sometime?

I settled for just a cup of coffee since it was too early to eat anything. It was soon 6am and light started spreading slowly. Energized by the coffee, I decided to take a short walk on the Subrahmanya road, where I knew I will find Kempu Hole after a short walk.

It took less than five minutes to hit the river. She was flowing wide and clear down the bridge, amidst thick evergreens. I walked down and settled myself comfortably on a stone, with my legs dipped into the mild flow – a pleasure I have always cherished. A few minutes passed with abundance of calmness captivating the surroundings. Fish swam past me and a kingfisher – the early bird – hunted them close by. Egrets occasionally flew past, with their white dazzle reflecting in the calm waters of the river. Many birds were still waking up and murmuring their morning prayers.

forest
Image of the region made three years ago during monsoons. Kempu Hole flows deep inside these jungles, somewhere in its valleys

When I came back, I saw my buddies had surrendered to slumber, tired after the night long bus journey. It did not take them much to find a place to sleep – one had slept off on a bench in the ‘hotel’ and the other had found a clean cement bench on the bus-stop nearby. Both were already fast asleep. I did not want to waste my time just like that; I found another good cement bench in the bus stand.

It was nearly 8am when we were up and ready to go. A quick breakfast later, we stood near the road, ready to flag every vehicle that came on the way. The first truck on the way stopped for us. Depressingly, it carried fat trees that donned the jungles somewhere deep in the Sahayadris. A 10 kilometer journey back towards Bangalore and we were near Kempu Hole, where we intended to spend rest of the day.

We got down from the truck, walked a little to find a nice isolated place in the river and settled down lazily on its bank. Lazing was the only thing in our mind. We found some comfortable place among the boulders on the bank. Listening to the soothing sound of the flow, we spent an hour or so quietly, and dozed of again on the rocks.

It must be a little more than 10am when I woke up. Now I was ready for a dip in the water. The place we had chosen had shallow water, which dropped down through a small waterfall of multiple steps and then formed a deeper and narrow section of the river. The current was not very strong but sufficient to drain the energy if I tried to swim against it. I was not well verse with swimming in the rivers and was worried and hesitant initially. Tense would be the right word. I was very unsure if I should take the plunge, as there was no one who could rescue if I were to be carried away by the flow or got injured by hitting a boulder. After a few minutes of contemplation I took the plunge!

Once I was in the water, it took no more than a few seconds to feel comfortable. I moved into the deeper section and swam freely as I pleased. Sometimes I tried swimming against the river and then would let my body flow down with the water. Occasionally I crossed to the other side, flirting with the current. I found a bounder in the middle of the river, with only its tip raising above the water, that was nearly in the shape of a bath tub. Perfect, I thought, as it served as a place to rest between swims. Lying down on it in the gentle current and listening the whispers of the flow is a pleasure that I don’t know how to describe.

I spent more than two hours in the deep water before I moved towards the waterfall. I lied below the waterfall that served as a jacuzzi, massaging my back and leaving me feeling good.

Nearly drained of all the energy, we eagerly consumed the lunch that we had packed in the morning. We then packed our bags and headed deeper into the forest. Walking upwards for an hour and a half next to a small stream, we arrived at Yedakumeri railway station around 4.30pm.

way to Yedakumeri
Image of the region made three years ago during monsoons. Train tracks leading to Yedakumeri

Yedakumeri station lies halfway up a hill, is surrounded by forest all around it and has no habitation or whatsoever except railway workers. We slept on the platform isolated by rest of the world, with stars twinkling high in sky and wind of the mountains soaking our body.

Next morning, we walked back through the forest into Kempu-Hole, crossed it and reached the road, and flagged a bus back to the city.


Photo Essay: Janapada Jaatre in Bangalore, Karnataka’s Folk Culture at it’s best

A month ago I was at Janapada Jaatre in Bangalore, a cultural fair held fortnightly to showcase folk arts from various parts of Karnataka. It was a great event and every minute of the entire two-hour show was an awesome entertainment. Here are some images from the show.

folk artists of Karnataka

Artists assemble on the stage with traditional attire before their performance begins.

Goravana Kunita
Goravara Kunita is a form of dance where performers dress up and dance wildly with small drums called “thamate” in hand. It can be scary for children. In the yester years, the dance was meant to ward off evil, and was practiced in the some parts Southern Karnataka.

Yakshagana
Yakshagana is the state’s official art form, and is popular in coastal Karnataka and parts of Malnad region. Yakshagana is a type of Opera, where performers dance to the songs depicting stories from Mahabharatha. Interestingly, it mixes dance and drama. After dancing with the drums for a verse, performers break into a conversation to elaborate the theme of the verse. As you can see from the picture, lot of work goes into the dress and makeup of the artists.

dance
A traditional dance to the tunes of a folk song – “Moodal Kunigal Kere..”

Yakshagana
Another character from a Yakshagana. He is a comedian, as is evident from the image. Jokers, or Haasyagaara as they are called, are part of nearly every episode of Yakshagana. The episode they were playing on the day I was there was “Sreekrishna Paarijaatha”, the story of stealing the divine flower from Indra’s gardens.

Bhootada Kola
Bhootada Kola was the star-event of the day, performed at the end. Kola is another custom to ward off evil, performed in the southern coastal regions of Dakshina Kannada.

Janapada Jaatre Information
Janapada Jaatre is a festival held at 6pm every 2nd and 4th weekend(both Saturday and Sunday), at Lalbag Botanical Gardens, Bangalore. The location of the festival is as interesting as the festival itself – it happens in an open air arena, where audience sit on a hillock, making it a Cinema hall like arrangement under the stars. This is an event organized as part of celebration of 50th year of forming Karnataka – Suvarna Karnataka Varsha. The event started in November 2006 and is expected to go on till November 2007.

Also see: More images of Janapada Jaatre on my India Image Gallery


A morning in Nandi Hills

Last weekend, I was at Nandi hills, a short 50km drive from Bangalore, hoping to witness the magnificent foggy mornings that usually happen in the winters and rainy seasons. Not to disappoint me, it was indeed foggy, cool and beautiful. Cold breeze on my face is something I always long for and that’s just what I got when I went up. I was hoping to find a spectacle like this while I was there, and though it did not happen, I still got to see clouds above and below me, magically segregated by a line of blue sky!

Nandi Hills
Cloud formation on the hill

Nandi Hills
A typical foggy morning on Nandi hills. This is an old image made during the monsoons two years ago. It was cold, windy, foggy and very very beautiful

Also see: Weekend getways from Bangalore

I waited till 9am looking for cloud formations, and was ready to return when it did not happen. It is on my way back that I noticed a small strip of paper oscillating on a tree, and wondered if it is a pfc. I went to have a closer look, it indeed turned out to be a paradise flycatcher(pfc). I was lucky to watch it for nearly an hour. Sometimes I got as close as a couple of meters to it and watched its acrobatics – flying around with its tail taking some time to follow it! I had never had such close interaction with this beautiful bird.

Asian Paradise Flycatcher
The Paradise Flycatcher has an amusingly long tail. When it flies, it looks as if the tail is lagging behind and trying hard to catchup – a very funny sight!

Blue Capped Rock Thrush
This was my first ever sighting of a Blue Capped Rock Thrush, and he made sure I will remember this sighting, by posing nicely for a photograph!

As I went behind the flycatcher, I was also treated with some more sightings like the Grey Wagtail, Blue Capped Rock Thrush, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, Purple Rumped Sunbirds and a few more species. I managed to make decent images of the Blue Capped Rock Thrush and Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, but the pfc which was hanging around me for a long time never gave me a chance to make a good picture of it.

Tickells Blue Flycatcher
A Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher

What if I did not get to see the magical cloud formation I was looking for, the day still rocked, thanks to the great weather and the pretty birds.

About Nandi Hills

Nandi Betta is a hill 1200m above sea level and is just a 50km drive from Bangalore. It is incredibly beautiful in winter mornings and all through the monsoon days as gets filled with fog and spreads a mystical magic on the hill. To reach Nandi Hills, take the 6 lane Bellary road towards the new Bangalore International Airport and drive on the highway till Devanahalli. Continue on the highway and after a 5 minute drive from Devanahalli, you will see a left turn which takes you to Nandi Hills. For those who want to stay through the night, government accommodation(typical PWD guesthouse) is available in limited numbers but no other options. Food is available on the hill top but is very basic and don’t have high expectations.