CORRECTING CHROMATIC ABBERATIONS
Sunday, July 10, 2005
Chromatic abberation is a problem that annoyed me very often, especially when I was shooting birds after early morning hours. Here is a detailed description of the problem and the solution.The problem
Sometimes you may see unusual colors on the edges in some pictures. The edges will have purple, red or cyan lines which are not present in the original object. This is likely to happen on heavily backlit objects or overexposed objects. Although this may not be evident in small sizes, it becomes obvious when viewed at 100% size. See the picture below. See the 100% crops that show purple lines.

A purple rumped sunbird


100 percent crops showing purple fringing
This is usually called color fringing, or purple fringing if the color induced is purple. The induced color is usually purple, sometimes cyan or red.
Why does it happen?
This happens due to an optical phenomenon called chromatic aberration. Refractive index of a glass is sensitive to wavelength of the light. This means that all colors do not focus on the same plane. Violets and Reds, which are on the edge of visible spectrum would get focused at different plane than others and hence create these colored edges.
How to avoid it?
Chromatic aberration is likely to happen when you shoot wide open. Stopping down the lens as much as possible can make the color fringing disappear. But this may not always be possible depending on the light conditions and the object you are shooting.
Correcting in Photoshop
There are several ways to fix the problem in Photoshop. Each one of it can help eliminate the stray colors. You can choose any one of these methods based on your comfort levels. I personally prefer to use Replace Colors option.
1. Using Hue/Saturation Command
a. Open Hue/Saturation command by clicking Ctrl+U or Image >> Adjustment >> Hue/Saturation. This opens the window below.

b. In the Edit drop down box, choose magenta.
c. Use the eyedropper tool
and click on any point in the picture that needs to be fixed for chromatic abberation.d. Reduce the saturation slider and lightness slider until the purple color fades. Doing this should remove the fringing.
2. Replace color Command
a. Open Replace Color command by clicking Image >> Adjustment >> Replace Color

b. Use the eyedropper tool
and click on the area where the color needs to be changed. You see a preview of the area where the colors are going to be replaced. Use
or
and click on the area where colors have to be replaced until you get the desired area selected.c. Create the color you want to replace the purple color with. This can be generated by adjusting hue, saturation and lightness sliders. Otherwise click on the box to open color picker and choose the color you want to replace with.
d. Once you have the desired color, click OK to replace the purple edges with this color. This should remove the purple fringing.
3. Color Replacement Tool
This is a crude method that requires replacing the colors by hand using a brush. But this could be useful if the image to fix has purple colored objects that should not be subjected to color replacement.

a. Select color replacement tool from toolbox.
b. You see some tools appearing on the top. Click on the brush; select the diameter of the brush to be almost the size of the purple lines.
c. In the picture, point to a place where you have the color to be replaced with. This would be usually adjacent to the border where you have color fringing. Now hold Alt key and click. Photoshop will take this portion of the image as the target color for replacement.
d. Move the brush on the area where purple colors have to be replaced.
OTHER OPTIONS
1. For those who shoot RAW, Adobe Camera Raw has commands that help eliminate chromatic aberration.
2. Panorama tools, a Photoshop plugin can be used to fix chromatic aberrations.
3. Color fringe reducer is another tool for removing CA and is available as photoshop plugin.
4. If you are shooting raw, photoshop can make it easier to correct CA. See here for details.
Below is the fixed image. This was dervied using Replace Color command which is my preferred way of fixing.

Despite many possibilities available to remove chromatic aberraion, it is better to take preventive measures to avoid this from happening. Remember that it occurs on overexposed and backlit objects. Closing down the lens as much as possible helps reduce the chances of chromatic aberration.
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7 Comments:
hello
I've just made a test with my new d200 and several lenses
20 mm 3.5 nikkor,28 2.8 nikkor,35 1.4 nikkor,50 af 1.8 , 85 1.4
my experiences are totally contradicting your findings
the so called chromatic abberation is worsening going to shorter focals and much worse when you use smaller diaphragm settings !!!
Reason : the color fringing is not mainly caused by the chromatic abberation that every lens has,but by the combination of the lens focal lenght and the CCD ! teh shorter the focal lenght , the steeper the angle of the incident light rays on the ccd will be in the corners and the the problem arises cause of the different light wavelenghts !
the old 20 mm (still one of my favorites) shows minimal color fringing at 3.5 (full aperture) but an unexceptable fringing at f16. At this latter aperture the sharpness is also compromised. Contrary to the laws of analogue photography it actually performs the best at FULL open almost no color fringing. I can sent you the examples , difficult to believe but true.
The quantum Mechanic pro filter is absolutely the best to remove the color fringing and eliminates almost completely the problem sometimes at cost of very critical subjects detailing.
www.wim.be
info@wim.be
Hi, That seems to be an interesting observation. The fact that shorter focal lenghts cause problems make sense to me, more because the effect of refraction is more pronounced at steeper incident light. Let me try some experimenting on it and higher apertures.
And thanks for the info on quantum Mechanic pro filter!
Cheers, very handy!
Actually, what you are probably experiencing is the effect of abberations caused by lenses that have been corrected for 35mm SLR being used on Digital Cameras.
In a Film camera the colours are separated into different layers of emulsion. (I'm not going to get into the whole additive colour system here.)But basically, higher end lenses separate the colours slightly so that they focus on the right plane. When you use a lens that has been calibrated for these aberrations on a digital camera they reappear.
shalaco, that's an interesting theory. I am aware of the color layers in film. While there is a chance that what you say is true, there are a few reasons why I think that could not be true. Have you come across any material about this light seperation? Would love to know more about it. Some reasons why I think that may not be the case -
1. Seperating out the colors may require highly sophisticated glasses when there is an array of lenses involved. It may be fairly easier with single element.
2. The difference between layers is very minute. Although I am not sure, I guess it might vary from film to film. And the thickness of the purple band should have been somewhere in the order of thickness of film layers, but it is too wide here.
3. Unlike what you said, I have actually seen CA more prominent in cheap lenses. The pictures I have shown are taken from cheap kit lenses. My more expensive lenses don't show so much of CA
4. I vaguely recollect that density and shape of sensors may have something to do with this. I will try to find more on it.
grt info i`m in need of it...
I just put this into a photoshop script, works great! Thanks.
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